I arrived in Can Tho via an overnight bus from Ho Chi Minh City. While still half-awake in a hazy state, I heard the engine slow down. The very first thing I saw when I opened my eyes was a thin curtain of mist hovering over the small canals weaving into the city. Can Tho welcomed me with an unexpected gentleness.
My first impression didn’t come from skyscrapers or neon lights, but from the distant echoing sound of motorboats, mingled with a hint of alluvial soil and the dampness of vegetation after the night dew. It was the characteristic softness of the Mekong Delta, a stark contrast to the hectic, dry atmosphere of the city I had just left. Can Tho doesn’t rush you; it unhurriedly opens its heart, inviting you to slow down and truly feel the place. Can Tho is truly the gateway to the authentic Mekong Delta experience.
Can Tho: The Economic and Cultural Heart of the Mekong Delta, perhaps you should know a little about the destination you are setting foot in.
Can Tho is nicknamed Tay Do (the Western Capital), which was once the official capital of the Southwestern region of Vietnam. Nestled on the bank of the tranquil Hau River, Can Tho is not only the economic and cultural center of the entire Mekong Delta but also an intricate network of rivers and canals, creating a distinct and unmistakable identity.
This place is the perfect fusion of the prosperity of a major city and the authenticity and generosity of the local people. The beauty of Can Tho lies not in its grandeur but in the richness of its fruit orchards, the vibrant life of its floating markets, and the hospitable smiles of the locals you will meet.
In short, Can Tho truly is the “Capital of Rivers,” where you can experience the riverine culture of the Mekong Delta most completely and profoundly.
It was barely 5:00 AM, the sky was still dim, as if freshly laundered after a rain shower, when I quickly stepped onto a small boat. That moment was truly special: the air was chilly, and the faint yellow lights from the vendor boats cast a reflection on the inky black water, creating a living watercolor painting.
And then, Cai Rang Floating Market appeared. It is not merely a tourist spot but a pulse of life. Hundreds of boats, big and small, lined up. The most iconic feature is the tall “beo” pole (a long advertising pole) from which various agricultural products are hung: a watermelon, a pomelo, or a bunch of bananas. This unique river-based commerce is vital for the Mekong Delta‘s economy. This is perhaps the world’s most unique way of advertising: “Look up and see what I’m selling!”
Amidst the rocking motion, the vendors’ calls, carried across the water without the use of speakers, sounded warm and intimate. Then, a small canoe weaved closer; it was a mobile noodle soup stall. I ordered a bowl. The vendor smiled gently, quickly scooping up a hearty, steaming bowl for me. As I savored the delicious noodle soup surrounded by the river, watching boats laden with fruit glide past, I realized that the simplicity of this river-based economy carried a vitality and authenticity that is hard to describe.
When my boat squeezed through a gap between two boats packed with cabbages, I had a small chat with the boatman, Uncle Sau. He has lived on the Hau River for over 40 years. He said, “This market is our home. We feel strange and out of place on land, but here, we are used to it.”
Right after he spoke, the first bright yellow streak of sunlight pierced through the makeshift tin roof of a large vendor boat. The light seemed to sprinkle gold onto the water and onto Uncle Sau’s kind smile. In that moment, I understood: Can Tho is not just a destination; it is a place where you witness a livelihood carried out in the light of hope—simple yet resilient.
Ninh Kieu Wharf: The Modern Face of the Mekong Delta.
During the day, the wharf welcomed me with refreshing gusts of wind blowing in from the Hau River. White-painted cruise ships were gently docked, and visitors strolled leisurely along the clean, tiled path. The scene was both relaxed and slightly nostalgic.
But as night fell, Ninh Kieu put on a different coat: sparkling and modern. The Ninh Kieu pedestrian street was ablaze with constantly changing LED lights, transforming the area into a giant light stage. Along the embankment, street music by young artists filled the air, accompanied by the savory smell of grilled food from sidewalk stalls. Ninh Kieu at night is a perfect blend of the gentle flow of memory and a modern, youthful pace of life.
When you stand in the middle of the Ninh Kieu pedestrian bridge at dusk, with your back to the Uncle Ho statue and your lens facing the vast Hau River, you will capture the moment the large tourist boats turn on their lights, creating a magical ribbon of light on the water.
I spent a peaceful afternoon visiting the Binh Thuy Ancient House. As soon as I stepped through the gate, I felt as though I had walked into a period film. These materials traveled across the sea from distant France or Belgium to this peaceful land of the Mekong Delta.
The architecture here is a sophisticated blend of East and West. The exterior presents a stately French-style façade with round columns and meticulous carvings, yet the interior is rich in traditional Vietnamese elements, featuring ironwood furniture sets and parallel sentences with gilded lacquer. The ancient wooden-framed windows with colored glass gently opened, letting in the afternoon sun that filtered through the shady garden.
The feeling upon entering is hard to describe: a deep scent of old wood mixed with a light aroma of incense. I quietly walked across the floor, where the sunlight streamed through the roof tiles and windows, forming golden stripes of light. I imagined I could hear the echoes of former generations’ conversations, the laughter of their children ringing from centuries ago.
The most fascinating detail that impressed me was the winding wooden staircase leading upstairs. It is not just a walkway but a work of art, with its exquisite, time-softened carvings. Furthermore, the intricately patterned floor tiles also tell a story of trade, as these materials traveled across the sea from distant France or Belgium to this peaceful land of Can Tho.
A major surprise on my trip was the Hung Kings Temple. Amidst a gentle landscape dotted with coconut trees and canals, a massive, solemn, and majestic architectural complex suddenly appears.
The first impression is the pervasive tranquility. The temple is not only a place of worship but also a cultural space rich in tradition. I spent time standing on the elevated grounds, where I could see a panoramic view of the surroundings: in the distance are low-lying houses and cool green trees; in front is the imposing architecture of the temple.
My personal experience was a profound sense of connection to tradition and modernity. It is meaningful to see the people of the Mekong Delta still look toward their origins, building such a solemn place of worship.
My advice: Try to visit late in the afternoon, around 4:00 PM. At that time, the pale yellow sunlight begins to slant, casting a glow on the roof tiles and stone columns, highlighting the temple’s colors and solemnity. The scene is both sacred and poetic.
My Khanh Tourist Village: Authentic Rural Life in the Mekong Delta.
The activities I experienced here were genuinely engaging and closely linked to rural life:
Visiting fruit orchards: I got to pick and taste seasonal fruits like mangoes and baccaurea ramiflora myself. Biting into a fresh piece of fruit right off the tree is truly the taste of the countryside.
Participating in folk games: Watching pig racing is great fun, or you can join in the traditional way of bailing water to catch fish.
Learning to cook Delta dishes: The guide also taught me how to prepare a few simple, authentic Southern Vietnamese dishes.
I tried rowing a “xuồng ba lá” (a small three-plank canoe) through a ditch for the first time. It was a real challenge! Without proper balance, the small boat would immediately sway. The guide stood on the bank, smiling, instructing me on how to position the paddle and how to lean my body correctly. The moment the boat glided gently over the water, weaving under the leafy canopies, I felt completely merged with the tranquility of this land. That is the simplicity and authenticity that no modern resort can replicate.
This land doesn’t just nourish the soul; it also caters to my appetite with “ultimate” delicacies. If you’re tired of pho or rice vermicelli, try a bowl of Chinese noodles with a distinct Can Tho flavor at Quán Hưng Mì Gia (No. 33 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street, Ninh Kieu Ward, Can Tho City). The restaurant space is cozy, typical of a seasoned Chinese noodle shop, with old wooden tables and warm yellow lights.
Must-try dish: definitely the dry noodles. The golden, chewy noodles are tossed in a rich sauce, served with perfectly marinated xá xíu (BBQ pork) and a few fragrant hoành thánh (wontons).
The original Chinese flavor is still there, but it has been slightly “Mekong-ified,” becoming milder and more harmonious without being overwhelmingly heavy with soy sauce or strong spices. It’s an unexpectedly perfect combination.
It would be a miss not to eat bánh xèo (sizzling savory crepe) in Can Tho! I went to Bánh Xèo 7 Tới (45 Hoang Quoc Viet Street, Ninh Kieu Ward, Can Tho City). As soon as I walked in, I heard the delightful sizzling sound of batter being poured onto the hot pan.
The bánh xèo here is as big as a plate, golden and crispy, with a generous filling of shrimp, duck meat, and bean sprouts. Most importantly, the sweet-and-sour dipping sauce is perfectly balanced, and the accompanying fresh herbs must be authentic wild herbs, fragrant with the smell of the countryside.
I even chatted with the lady making the pancakes; her hands moved deftly, yet her eyes constantly followed each pancake, and she offered me a kind smile when I complimented the dish. Her dedication made the food taste even better.
Bánh cống (deep-fried savory cake) from Aunt Nine (176 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, Ninh Kieu Ward, Can Tho City) was a street food spot recommended by a local. The stall is nestled on the sidewalk, with a characteristic Southern Vietnamese street-side atmosphere.
The flavor of the bánh cống here is truly superb: the crust is crispy, the filling is nutty from green beans and rich from pork fat, and it carries a delicate shrimp aroma. This dish is an authentic, humble, yet quintessential Can Tho culinary experience. Sitting on a plastic stool, eating the hot-out-of-the-fryer cake, and watching the city street at night—nothing beats it.
When I was tired of fast food and yearned for a familiar flavor, a local friend took me to Hồi Đó restaurant (54 Tran Binh Trong Street, Ninh Kieu Ward, Can Tho City). The name itself (“Back Then”) evokes a wealth of memories.
The restaurant’s space is cozy, recreating the image of a thatched house with mud walls, featuring rustic wooden tables and chairs and truly “back then” decorative items. Stepping inside felt like visiting my grandmother’s house in the countryside.
The restaurant specializes in traditional home-style dishes but prepared with refinement, making even gourmets nod in approval. You absolutely must try the shrimp bánh xèo (with tiny river shrimp), lẩu mắm (fermented fish hotpot, if you can handle the unique aroma), or local salads like gỏi bông điên điển (sesbania flower salad). These dishes are not only delicious but also evoke childhood memories for those far from home.
Sitting in the nostalgic setting, enjoying grilled snakehead fish wrapped in young lotus leaves, I realized that Can Tho offers not just alluvial soil but also a whole region full of memories. Hồi Đó is not just a place to eat; it’s a valuable “time-travel” experience.
Can Tho is not a lavish city, but it is a city full of heart. The pace of life here is slow and gentle, making you feel as if you are placing your hand on a softly flowing river, unhurried.
Before leaving, I realized that Can Tho is the place that makes you slow down to love more: to love the rhythm of the people making a living on the river, to love the taste of the alluvial soil, and to love yourself for being able to relax after busy days.
For those who come here, don’t just take a quick photo and rush away. Take the time to sit, enjoy a cup of coffee by the river, and, most importantly, listen to the story of these rivers, for that is the most authentic breath of the Mekong Delta. Whether you’re sharing your travel snapshots on a social platform or documenting your professional journey in the area like this post, make sure to slow down and truly feel the place.
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